What is the ger?

As kitchen may be the central room in our home, Ger is the center of life in Mongolia. This is a one-room house, where you cook, sleep, kill and prepare muttons, sew deels or bed sheets, play cards, drink vodkas, cut wood,... In short, where you do everything, especially during winter. From  20th october to may,  it is so cold outside that you cannot do anything.. except if it is inside.

The ger is the heart of Mongolian life. You live there with your parents until you get married and you have your own ger. Usually the youngest child will stay with the parents for a while, and take over the parents' business: sheeping, running the shop, or doing the same job... No matter you are a nomad or live in Ulaanbaatar in an apartment going to University. Tradition there is for everyone.

Though the world is opening to a modern life style, (everyone has a mobile, some ger in countryside have tv, young people go to internet cafés to play online) they commit to their traditional way of living, except in the capital city, where buildings blossom out.

Ulaanbaatar

In countryside, you are a nomad, which means, you have a winter house and a summer house.
If you live in the village, during winter you live in a ger, which is hotter than their house (built with wood). You add some material to make it better isolated from the outside cold, and you have prepared wood. During summer, you move out the ger and move in the house. It is also a one room house, but less hot, as summer is indeed hot there.

If you live in the countryside, in the grassland (mountains/steppes), you live in a ger but at two different places: one for summer in the valley, close to water, in a fresher place, where animals can have a good green grass. During winter, you move in the mountains, where you have no wind, and where you cannot have avalanche (there is huge amount of snow there in winter, very dangerous for animals).

winter ger

 As it is the only room, you find absolutely everything everywhere. Food under the bed, hanging on the "walls", "sofas" become beds at night. It is very hard to sit and sleep on it, there is no real mattress so get ready to be uncomfortable. During a 6 day-trip at the end of october, I slept one time on the floor, and I slept better there than on these beds. However, as they are very polite, they will offer you their own bed and they will sleep on the floor, so just go with it.


 Sometimes you can find a fridge, but as they don't have electricity or just with a battery it is not plugged ! It is just a way to keep the food inside smth.
They cook everything on the stove, which is the heart of the ger, and without what we could not survive in Mongolia. It is first a way to keep the ger warm during the day, ad during the night of course it's getting cold as everyone is sleeping and no one refills it with wood/coal. So on morning good luck to the first one that has to wake up ! For those like me who has to go to the "bathroom" during night, well my advice is not to try to wait and think you can wait til morning, because you know you can't, so just go very fast, don't think, take just a warm coat and warm shoes, and go outside !
They also use the stove to make tea, cook food, boil water for the laundry, etc.

In general, you just have to realize that they have no comfort like us: they don't have water, they don't have electricity, they don't have any intimacy. We used to go very often maybe three times/week to tha water supply with our can. Every single thing taht we do at home, there it is difficult: wash your hands. Well try to wash it when you have to pour water on your hand at the same time. There is a Mongolian way to do it: take water into your mouth without drinking it, and spit it slowly on your hands to wash it. That sound obvious? well as long as I haven't seen that, I wouldn't have done that.

During winter, I used to go outside with a big empty bag and put snow in it, to make it melt and make water out of it. Because during winter when you are far from any village, there is just the river to get water, but in winter, it is - 30°C and the river is all ice. No way to get any water from it. That was one of my daily activity when I was living in the mountains. I spent also a lot of time cooking pasta from flour and water. There is again a whole way to do it. We also had to find wood and cut it, etc, etc. But you have to imagine that these activities were done during - 30°C, and I can tell you that is very very cold.

For the Mongolian New Year, (same time as the chinese new year), they will all clean it, decorate it, put the best tissues around, maybe change the floor, etc. We did it last year, and I can tell you that's a hard and long work.

Wedding time

I have had the chance to go to a wedding party, thanks to my mongolian network eheh I know the right people. Just have to do the same in HK now. Well that is another story. Anyway, we had been invited there, wich is supposed to last few days, all day long. We arrived in the afternoon, I actually wasn't feeling very comfortable to go there, as I could not say anything -almost- and I didn't know those people. Besides, I was sure I was going to be the first "white people".

This takes place in the ger, where the couple has to stay in one end of the ger -the opposite side of the entrance- and all the guys just sit around.When you arrive, you have to offer some presents to the couple. The close family will offer rugs, and other useful and expensive presents. The others -like us- offer anything that can be a present: we offered biscuits and vodka. So you have to walk to them, and "kissed" them on each cheek, and give them the present. They will kiss you back. Usually, if you are younger, you put your arms under theirs. But I do not think that is a big deal when you are a foreigner. They do not expect you to know the very traditional customs, so do not worry and relax.

the newlyweds

As you can see, it was very crowded. A ger is quite small, and it is the unique living place. I will post about it later. And yes, I was the only white one. I had to dress up the mongolian way -wearing a deel-, and you may notice that blue is their favorite colour, the color of Tenger, the sky. Mongolian people are very proud, of themselves, of being mongolian, of their country and their culture. They like tradition, and respect it. Anyway, focus marie, focus.

You can see the couple, the husband is drinking airag -mare's milk. The guy in white, at the bottom left, is one of the two guys pouring glasses of airag, mongolian vodka and vodka. Yes there was a lot of alcohol, which consists of two different kind of vodkas. The mongolian vodka is very light, few %, and handmade.

how to make mongolian vodka

For those, like me, who don't drink alcohol, I can tell you, this was already too strong.

Then you have traditional vodka, airag, and milk tea -which is  must, otherwise you would be drunk within the first hour. There is a technique. There are two guys giving shots to everyone, and everyone has his turn, many, many times. Maybe because I was white, it was my time too many times eheh.

I asked the Mongolian guy who came with me -a friend of the family- to ask them to stop giving drinks to me, because it was too much, and I felt already dizzy. I tried many different techniques. The first is to finish the glass and give it away. But it comes back full, so forget about it. Then I tried to keep it for a while, but they push you to drink, and they will even give you another glass -if yours is vodka, they will give you mongolian vodka, and vice versa. Another technique is to give it back without drinking or just sip a bit, but they won't take it until you finish it. So basically you have no choice. However I had the chance to seat close to this guy, a good drinker, so he sometimes drank it for me, but it is usually forbidden. Good luck guys!

Vodka and Mongolian vodka

The worst part is if they give you at the same time Airag and  Mongolian vodka. Then you have to sing. So usually someone start singing, and then other people join him. It is always songs abut the nature: the sky, the grassland, also about the horses -usually Naadam's horses. But when it happened to me -eheh- I couldn't sing a Mongolian song -well I know one they used to sing for children, and another one, but I think it would have been inappropriate. And actually at that time, I coudn't think much: I was kind of drunk, and scared of singing in front of everyone. But they were all staring at me, and as everyone sang before, I had no choice but singing smth. The guide told me to sing a french song, that they both knew. So we sang all together. It was like bungee jumping. Do not think, just do it.

Mongolian vodka and Airag

I got the only camera at the wedding, so I took pictures of everyone, this is a good way for them to have some souvenirs, and also some family portraits. I printed it for them.

You may notice that there are various type of deels, but there are rules: women wear adjusted deel, with usually small patterns and a thin belt. It is just the opposite for men. The bigger they look, the best it is. Big patterns, thick belts are a must for every man. You must also, -men or women- wear the boots, and a hat (this is especially for men). Everything tends to enhance the power of the men. It is a men/women culture, you will see that through the blog.

We left the party at night, but didn't come back, as asked the following day, we were just too messy. I printed out the pictures, and we gave it to the families.

About the tradition

I should have started with that post, as this is the way you enter the Mongolian world. Actually to be true, you enter it via the transsiberian or via a flight, right. But when you escape Ulaanbaatar to reach the countryside, you will face the traditional way to welcome people. Ok, maybe I should explain the reason why.

In countryside, as you may have noticed, there is few ger (usually two to three families) every few km. Which means that when you travel, you have to stop to any place - no matter you do not know the people-, because your horse is tired, or maybe because you need to rest, drink, etc. You will enter any ger -no need to knock at the door-, and people will always, always, give you some tea and the tradiotional urum - a kind of cream, which is basically smth between butter and cream, 100% fat. Take a bit with your finger. You will also have some snacks -they present you a basket of mix cheese, sweets, candies- you just do not know what to take! But you have to take both the snack and some urum -even a tiny bit if you do not like it- or you would be rude to them.


 Here you have the traditional cheese, very useful if you want to loose a teeth: harder than concrete!! However, it is a good way to keep it for a long run. What we do is, we eat it -suck it would be more accurate actually, at least for me, I do not have such teeth- and then you put it back to one of your pocket, - if you wear a deel I will explain you after how to make a pocket- and so you can chew it for a while. Very smart indeed!! and full of protein.

urum and Aaruul (hard cheese)

During summer, airag, mare'smilk, is also a must drink. I do not have pics yet, but I will find it.

So you enter a ger, sit down and wait for the tea and food. Then if you are with a mongolian people, let him speak. You can admire their decoration: they will be happy if you take a look at their pictures and medals. They indeed did a lot of wrestling, and Naadam - horse racing.

I haven't seen a horse race there so I can't tell you much about it, except that  alsmot every kid has participated to a Naadam. This is very common, and in countryside between the 11th and 13th july, you can randomly see races. Otherwise, Mongolian are kind of connected, as they can have a television at home -thanks to a external battery- so they follow Naadam on TV, and radio.

Another commonly practice is to drink with people in coutnryside when you wander in the steps. We have been asked many times to stop for a drink (airag and vodka of course). Actually, you can see a bunch of guys sitting on the grassland in the middle of nowhere, and they will just yield at you to get off your horse and drink, drink, and drink again. My problem: I do not drink alcohol. They were very very persistent. You usually have to accept drinking, this is a custom: but watch out not to drink too much. The best is to drink the first shot, then you can give back the glass. They will force you to drink again, but keep saying no, and leave.

Of course, when it comes about a wedding, that is totally different. I will dedicate a post about it.

the special mongolian diet

As a french saying goes "chose promise, chose due". Here we go with the food you will eat in Mongolia. First of all you have to know that it is mostly dairy and meat products. So a basic meal will be fried rice/pasta with lamb and a tiny bit of vegetables: usually two carrots for six to eight people, just to add some colors in fact. Lots of onions too, and lot lot lot of oil. So if you are vegetarian -like I was at that time- you are going to be in trouble.

the art of making pasta

I told the cook, so she cooked separate dish for me, which consisted of white rice in an ocean of butter. So after two days of no eating, I decided that the normal food will do. I just usually put the meat away (but it is not easy task because they grind meat so it is a work of patience). And you must tolerate the taste of meat anyway. But their food looks more delicious than mine, and I was eating half hour after/before them so I just thought, let's do it the easy way.

and the art of grinding meat

Ok, this is baically the type of food you can find in countryside. It is usually home made pasta (made with flour and water, pretty easy but very long to make), boiled with lamb meat and few carrots/onions. You can also have the same combination with rice instead of pasta: here you are!!

When you do not have much at home, or when it is cold, they also use to cook a flour soup. It consists of hot water, in which they add wet flour, so that it makes flour lumps, it is actually quite tasty :)) especially after a long day horse riding, or just when you are hungry.
 
You rediscover the simplicity of food there, because they are just not farmers. Some associations try to teach Mongolian people how to grow things, but they usually just buy it at the xuncnii delguur = "the people shop".

They do not have deserts. So do not hope for a cake fruit or yoghurt. They do have their own yoghurt, the most delicious I ate so far (and I am a professional about that), but they just eat it whenever they feel like eating. Do not be afraid of gaining weight!!

Here you can find also a traditional meal. The steam bread is called mantyy, and it is made of flour and baking powder. This is my favourite among Mongolian food. This goes with cuutetsei = milk tea, tea, mil and salt, and you can enjoy buuz = steamed dumplings (with lamb of course, so be aware, it may be steamed, it is still very fatty, and to balance it, some carrot salad!!

 Here you have a different sort of mantyy. You can actually add spring onions (such as those ones), but also meat, etc.


Whatever you eat, be aware of oil and butter everywhere, added to the fat of the meat!! and everything tastes lamb. Good luck!!

About the drinks, they are fond of tea. This is their traditional everyday drink. Besides, we will see in the "traditions" part that this is a must do. As explained before, they usually prepare it with salt. It may seem easy, but it is not! I did it many times, and one time there is not enough salt, one time it is just impossible to drink because of too much salt. There is a way of doing it, that you will learn quite quickly if you do it everytime needed (which means three to four times a day).
Then you may add milk to obtain the traditional milk tea. Delicious and quite feeding.

Airag is the second common drink during summer, as horses are fat and give lot of milk. Yes this is horse's milk. It is fat free, and though it could taste weird, we get used to it very quickly. Besides it is very refreshing when you travel during a hotty summer day. The temperature can reach 30°C with no wind, and of course no shadow in the steps. That's why you usually stop at soe's ger to have a rest and drink a bit of airag. However, get ready to drink it with some flies as there are huge quantities of it dying in the milk.

As you can notice, I give it a try, but I can tell you the result was not that good! It is a pretty difficult thing to get the milk of a horse.

the first trip 3/07/09 - 21/07/09

I do not know where to start. At first, we were two groups,and we split two days after. I do remember not wanting to stay with them, but once we split, I missed them, for few minutes, few hours maybe.

the two groups just before we split

You have to imagine how the trip was like. We were on our horses, in the middle of nowhere -in the steps- it was just a big green land -called the grassland-, with an open big blue sky, not any single tiny cloud, nothing, I had just theis feeling of big open space, the feeling of being lost in the nature, I felt disorientated. I was afraid of the quietness, of our group, of being face to face with people we shared nothing with at that time.

this emptiness of the steps

The couple was simply great. They were funny, interesting, kind, respectful, opened to newness and discovery, and they were trained: they had done a previous 5 days trip with another formula, sleeping with family. As a human beign, we recreated our community, four european and five Mongolian (the driver, the cook and her child, the guide and the trainee). We didn't have anything to do but ride horse all day long, and enjoy the nature. At night, after having built our ger, we usually spoke, play cards or have some magic tricks (the man was a wanna be magician kind of). I usually helped the trainee to take care of horses, because you could think, ok at 6PM they are off, and they just do nothing, do they, the Mongolian people had quite a lot to do, and the trainee has to learn everything, so I just felt, well, I can benefit from his training and learn also a bit. That consisted on taking off the saddle, the snaffle bit so that the horses could eat, and attache their anteriors so that they won't run away during the night. Because they were no fence, again, everything there was -and still is- about freedom. Or maybe it's just because in our modern world, everything is about rules, and dos and donts.

building the ger

Anyway, that usually took a while, and we were just happy to lay down for diner, and go to bed.

ger built

ger built

No shower. that was a tough thing for me, who usually take between two to three showers a day (if I train). Well you had no choice so. Though actually I do remember having the alternative of washing in the river. Except that the guide soaked his cap in the river, and flies were around for couple of hours. OMG I prefered from far not washing. So basically, this trip helped us -OMG it's gonna sound so cliché- discovering another sense of life, what is important, what is useful, what is fun, what is culture. Yeah in France, as in any other developed country, we think museum is culture. Well I say people are culture.I have learnt so much over the last year, that I could speak about it for ever. I always explain to people what I have experienced, and I always come up with a different way of explaining things, because there is just too much, because this is about people, and they are so complex, so interesting, that there is always newness about them.

During this trip, we played baseball with dry cow's poo and wood stick, football, jump rope with a rope lead, races, also we used to steal our trainee's rubber band, and pass it to another, and it always finished into my hand because I had -though the tiniest- the fastest horse, so at the end I would just run away. He would eventyally follow me a bit, but just drop it (his horse was fastest than mine but he was here as a trainee, he coudln't just play with us like this, he had to watch out people, the safety of the clients is the most important thing for a guide).
So it actually helped to develop our imagination, because we just had nothing with us. Nothing that we use in France to be occupied: mobiles, games consoles, laptop, internet of course. It seems that now, computer + internet is just enough to make our day. This is just so sad. I have the feeling I have lived more within these few months than in France over a same period, because internet can be a treasure, but it can also be a huge waste of time.

As promised, here are some pics from the first trip: our games, but also the bond between us, that felt great. We used to play with every single thing we found: wood, feather, whatever...

 

our games: a plastic bottle and a wood stick

our team

The second part of our trip started with the shower. Yeah, that rocked :)) We were quietly wandering in the steps, when our guides said we had to hurry because of a storm coming. So we actually galloped for almost half of our day (43km) under the rain. We were just exhausted, and so the horses were. oh бурхан минь

 We arrived at a tourist camp, and slept there  because we couldn't just build a ger, it was too wet,still raining, and all our clothes were wet. So the guides offered to stay there overnight. OMG that was like a 5* hotel for us. A real ger where you can stand up, hot, real bed to sleep, and hot shower.
Yes we did a bit of laundry!!

On the next morning we felt fresh, but I was a bit reluctant to go, as I had to put wet shoes and pant. However with the ride, it dried quickly, and we were back to our adventure.

We stopped at Tovhon Monestary, a small retreat  hidden in the mountains,  founded by Zanabazar. They were quite a lot of tourists, if we may say so, but after few days without seeing anyone, hearing english all around felt weird. There were two ways of doing it:  one simple; and one more technical, as you had to climb and go all around the temple.But you know, Mongolian people are very traditional and it's just better to do it the way they do it.

However they are also very traditional in the women/men segregation thing. So there was this part, forbidden to women, were men went to bow and pray maybe. I do not know really. that will remain the secret of Mongolia.

some views from the monestary...

 

We had a great time, and it sounded almost like the end. I can't remember properly, but I guess two days more and the trip was over. We actually met a group of tourists (from the same company), who encountered some difficulties about their trip (I skip the details, this is not relevant), and guess what? I met the girl from Vietnam. That was incredible, I mean to meet again soe we met randomly in a country, she gave me the contacts of the company, and here we are, in the middle of the countryside, and she is there!! But I was in a bad mood at that time, because we were heading back to the camp, and that was our last night with our group. I felt they were intruiding, and we couldn't help but stand their presence there with us (yes because their guide had to ride over the countryside to find lost horses). I felt angry, as I didn't want to share my last night with them.It is such a european feeling again. Mongolian people just do not care about that. It sounds just normal, and they even do not bother themselves with that kind of feelings. There is no right or wrong, there is not happy or unhappy, there is not like or dislike, there is just "that's the way it is", and they always make their own way through.

 They left with another guide a bit after we left the camp, and we could appreciate our last day with our group. That was good, but it was almost the end. There were of course good things to come back, like shower and bed, no mosquitos anymore, a bit of intimacy and good food (yes because the food is tragically the same and 100% lamb made...I will dedicate a post just about the food do not worry about this)

I can't really recall the end of the trip, just tired and funny. We sat in the café (which is part of the company in the small village of Harhorin) for diner, already speaking about souvenirs, what we have done, sharing our laughs. I was not very sad, as I usually am after a trip because the couple was going to spend two days in the capital city and we three, so we had this perspective of being together again. That was like stages: first we leave the steps, then the countryside, then the couple, then we go back home. I cried anyway

nothing better than poo's smoke to keep mosquitos away

part of our team

our guides